In Hong Kong, some of the best Indian food you’ll eat is served from old glass stalls that sit next to piles of SIM cards and back-of-the-truck Nokia phones. Chicken drenched in warm chili oil and green peppers is plated up with buttery lentils at Al-Madina Curry House, a tiny hole-in-the-wall with Halal Indian food owned by Pakistanis. It’s next to an African restaurant—run by a Filipina—with men from India and Bangladesh hawking electronics, just across the hall. While it’s called Little India, the ground floor of Chungking Mansions—the epicenter of life for Hong Kong’s asylum seekers—is culturally ambiguous. Most there hail from South Asia, the Middle East, and Africa, all trying to make a new life in one of[…]

This is the fourth in a series of articles featuring immigrant- and refugee-owned restaurants  in enclaves located outside of major US cities. Driving into Schuyler, Nebraska from the northeast at dusk, I stopped on empty roads waiting for long freight trains to pass. It was mostly emptiness and when I did cut through small towns they were dark. I knew that Schuyler—a city of 6,200 people, 70 miles west of Omaha—was 65 percent Latino, according to the 2010 Census, and that 12.6 percent of the residents were born in Guatemala. Yet I hadn’t been able to find a Guatemalan restaurant online and the dark streets and silhouettes of fading industrial skylines in the towns leading up to Schuyler (pronounced Skyler) were[…]

Outside the Mobile Thai Kitchen truck. All photos by Nick Gomer. This is the third in a series of articles featuring immigrant- and refugee-owned restaurants in enclaves located outside of major US cities. Mobile Thai Kitchen is a little white box that sits in a parking lot between a gray warehouse and a bland, brown strip mall along Route 44, the major drag that cuts through St. Robert, Missouri. In freezing February, the flowers in the trough, which blocks sight of the food truck’s wheels, were tinder. But even after 1 PM—the end of the military lunch break—locals were parked, waiting for their food. The parking lot is filled with a few other food stands now, too. A red barn serving[…]