It’s noon on a steamy Sunday in the Thai countryside and Paolo Vitaletti, the Roman-born son of butcher, is barbecuing a whole lamb. Sweat beads up on his forehead over the roaring open flames, but he’s in high spirits, as is the rest of the team who are busy cooking family-sized frittatas and gai yaang, northeastern Thai-style grilled chicken. Reggae is blasting and almost everyone has donned dark sunglasses, because, hangovers and sweltering temperatures be damned, it’s showtime. “This year we decided to do the kind of food that all kinds of people might want to eat when they’ve had a long night, or are feeling a little fragile,” says Jarrett Wrisley, a former food writer who runs Bangkok’s Soul[…]