“This dish is gonna be like POP POP—it’s a little bit spicy from the Thai chilies, sour from the fresh yuzu, and umami from the mushrooms and truffle,” says Pichaya “Pam” Utharntharm as she arranges creamy, translucent slices of Hokkaido scallops on seashells. “I love appetizers, because you get to play around. There aren’t as many rules as with a main course.” For the final flourish, she hoists a canister of liquid nitrogen up and pours a steady stream of freezing vapors over the plates. Somewhat intimidated by how casually she wields something the size of a toddler that could easily take one’s hand off, I ask if she’s ever been burned. “Oh, from this?” she asks. “I’ve done this[…]