The view outside AT, in front of Tour d’Argent. All photos by the author. “Je ne suis pas un chef Japonais,” Atsushi insists. He is not a Japanese chef. Every time I try to tie his cuisine to his roots, he corrects me politely. I meet Atsushi Tanaka at his restaurant AT, a few meters away from the Pont de la Tournelle, an Île Saint-Louis bridge on which stands an impressive statue of Paris’ holy patroness Saint Genevieve. The restaurant is a small and quiet place, and I had to go back and forth a few times to finally find its grey and spectacularly discrete storefront. Atsushi greets me at the door: He is thin and elegant. We sit at a[…]